Well done Bob! I have been doing that ever since I started doing the Bowl from a board method (well over a year now) and I concur with your tutorial. Two slight differences however.

1. The glue block in my case is a 1 - 2 inch piece of maple attached to a 3 inch face plate then turned flush with the outer edge of the faceplate. I turn a recess on the outer facing end leaving ½-3/4 inch wide raised flat on the outside face diameter. The recess takes the squeeze out glue leaving just the outer flat ring in contact with the bowl blank. When I am ready to attach the bowl blank to the face plate, I put a bead of thick CA glue on the maple rim and spray the bottom of the bowl blank (in the area where the glue will contact) with accelerator. I then place the center point of the blank over the live center in the tail stock and push the blank against the glue block and crank the tail stock tight against the blank. This centers the blank and holds it in position for a few seconds while the glue sets. It is quite easy to break off the completed bowl using a small hammer and chisel leaving a smooth bottom to finish. The accelerator does two things. First it speeds up the set up of the glue (less than 5 minutes to full ) and second reduces the adhesion to the bowl blank making the separation easier and cleaner.

2. To finish the bottom I use a vacuum chuck, but your jam chuck is just as effective and not as expensive to set up.

I highly recommend this method for dry wood blanks. I find since I do a lot of turning with dry wood blanks this method speeds up things and leaves me with no waste on the bottom which is important to me. I keep 2 prepared face plates ready at all times (as I often do 2 bowls at a time). . I always remove (turn off) the left over glue from the face plate and re-cut the recess ready for the next bowl right after removing the bowl. The left over glue can be very sharp and cause cuts if handled without cleaning up first.

I have not tried this method on wet wood to date, and do not recommend it without first testing the adhesion to the wet wood. It should work as long as the wet wood is sound and solid.

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Mo, Its not a book - it is a magazine. You would have to check with your local library to see if they have the issue. The retail price is only $5.99 and with the varied project and information you get pretty reasonable value for your buck. Kelvin

I highly recommend this method for dry wood blanks. I find since I do a lot of turning with dry wood this method speeds up things and leaves me with no waste on the bottom which is important to me. I keep 2 prepared face plates ready at all times (as I often do 2 bowls at a time). . I always remove (turn off) the left over glue from the face plate and re-cut the recess ready for the next bowl right after removing the bowl. The left over glue can be very sharp and cause cuts if handled without cleaning up first

So, what do you think of any them (past experiences, reviews, ....) and what other tech events you anticipate to go to?

It's difficult to choose the right place for us but we are trying to choose the best and sometimes we are not right. This time I can choose the right place for me where I can find the from my friend and its very helpful in my studies.

So, what do you think of of them (past experiences, reviews, ....) and what other tech events you anticipate to go to?

Nothing to do with me at all. I do know from separate recent experience that if you a 4x4 above where the hole is it will start to sink after about two hours.

bez. rotationsprinzip könnten wir ja eine mischung aus starken kader bzw. bevorzugung derer die noch nicht viele hfl-spiele haben, machen. also ich denk da an matthias (bisher 1 spiel), flo (2 ) oder philipp (4 spiele)... das jene quasi bevorzugt behandelt werden. (ich red jetzt natürlich nur von vollmitgliedern)